If this is something like what you're after...


[![enter image description here][1]][1]


 - Select all edges, <kbd>Ctrl</kbd><kbd>B</kbd> bevel, by width, with a moderate even number of segments (here,6)
 - <kbd>Ctrl</kbd><kbd>Keypad -</kbd> reduce the selection back to the original latitudes and longitudes
 - <kbd>O</kbd> turn on proportional editing, Connected, Sphere fall-off, small radius
 - <kbd>Alt</kbd><kbd>S</kbd> scale along normals.
 - Select the smallest 'large' face, <kbd>Shift</kbd><kbd>G</kbd> select similar by area > 'Greater Than' to select all the large faces, and <kbd>I</kbd> inset them a little..

[![enter image description here][2]][2]

 - With  Autosmooth switched on, maybe have a play with the new Weighted
   Normal modifier, by face area, to get the look you want without
   subdivision.


  [1]: https://i.sstatic.net/i2aMm.jpg
  [2]: https://i.sstatic.net/AoUOy.png